Staircase to Heaven
It doesn't happen often, but I have just managed a fleeting visit to London. From remote, rural Norfolk, where the clap of a butterfly's wings is a disturbance of the peace, to the mixed up confusion of the Qatari Capital of the World, where a fetid spatter of international tourists clamour with the exhausts of a million air conditioners.... it's just a disrupted train ride, it's merely a hundred miles, though it seems like a light year.....
I carry a camera. People don't seem to notice - everyone's too busy talking on their phones or taking selfies..... And I snap away at this and that; young:
And old:
Day (this was breakfast in Bar Italia - Frith Street, since 1949 - and the girl was trying to sip tea between visits to the bathroom - she really wasn't very well poor thing):
And night (there are a lot of very very expensive cars to be seen prowling the streets of Mayfair - and there are a lot of very very smart young women too....):
Some scenes are humdrum:
And some slightly bizarre:
But I found most delight in galleries, where framed faces from the past were eager to catch my attention. In the wonderful Courtauld Gallery this gilded child was desperate for attention:
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Mary Magdalen, by Fra Angelico (active 1417 - 1455) |
And a couple of handsome young chaps seemed immersed in discussing the contents of a suspicious box one held in his left hand....
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Tobias and the Archangel Raphael, from The Trinity with Saints Mary Magdalen and John the Baptist by Sandro Botticelli (1445 - 1510) |
And I love the cross talk between and embarrassed Adam and a bored Eve in the Garden of Eden:
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Adam and Eve Lucas Cranach the Elder (1526) |
And there are the famous faces, too, ones that everyone knows (but not everyone hears....) From the self-harmed Vincent:
To the long suffering Suzon:
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A Bar at the Folies-Bergère Édouard Manet (1882) |
To the quietly reflective younger Seamus Heaney:
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Portrait of Seamus Heaney Edward McGuire (1974) |
Currently at the Courtauld, there is an exhibition of Edvard Munch's Masterpieces from Bergen, amongst which there is this scene:
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Evening on Karl Johan Edvard Munch (1892) |
Then it is time to descend the staircase from heaven to the ground again:
Out into the heat and glare of the drought of London. Parched parks:
Trees shaken by the oven breath of a southerly breeze:
And trickling slime at low tide:
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The mouth of the Wandle, Wandsworth |
But then I find refuge on the site of the Millbank Penitentiary, in that marble monument to the sugar cube, the Empire's Tate Building.......
Here I am welcomed by one Walter Sickert, a proto-Europhile (born in Munich, raised in London, active in France and Italy):
I knew nothing of this man, confusing him perhaps with a mash up of Whistler (his tutor), Sisley and Seurat (what do I know?) and at first I am not sure about what I see:
His portraits seem distorted and almost garish, like this 1923 painting of Cicely Hey, a painter herself, and close personal acquaintance of Sickert, who modelled for him several times.
But as I move through the rooms, he grows on me. Pictures of Music Halls in London and Dieppe capture a world of entertainment more or less lost to the modern sofa. I particularly like the energy of this shot of the Tiller Girls, reminding me of an old acquaintance, Pamela La Marca, once a Tiller herself, whose lively manner and homely speech enlivened many a dull parents' evening in Rome:
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High-Steppers (c 1938-9) |
And on the other hand, he finds art in domestic boredom in this study of a listless couple. It was posed in his Hampstead Road studio using models Marie Hayes and Hubby (one of Sickert's assistants and models),
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Ennui (c 1914) |
But most of all, I like his street scenes, bold, colourful slices of urban existence, exploring light on architectural planes. It's a familiar world.... without the noise and heat of today:
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Maple Street (1916) |
And with that, I'm gone. Back to the world of pierrot and parades, sunshine and shadow, empty deckchairs and the strained vaudeville of everyday modern life....
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Brighton Pierrots (1915) |